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Help with Gussets

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  • Help with Gussets

    I’m currently working on a long standing project that has been dragging its heels due to my lack of knowledge in working with 3d projects. The project is a clutch with a U shapped gusset, however it’s more like s V shaped gusset. After (many) hours attempting to get the gusset correctly shaped I’m reading out for some help.

    I am attempting to creat a gusset simular to this bag.

    My attempts so far look sonthing like this:
    • Design pattern on pc shoe is in thr shape of a V however with a rounded bottom.
    • Cut pattern out including a small centered dart (approx 15mm hight and 10mm at the widest point)
    • Cut outer leather using the pattern (except dart)
    • Skive the back of the area where the dart will be
    • Cut the dart in the Center of the U bend
    • *** I have tried two methods from this point***
    • Method one -
    • Skive the front edge of one sides of the dart
    • Fold the edges of the dart over itself and apply a small amount of glue.
    • Method two -
    • Fold the gusset in half amd hold in place using a clip
    • punch 3 holes 3mm from the edge of the dart
    • Stich amd trim thread and seal with glue
    The issues I’m getting are with the first method it looks tidy however I’m scared overctime the glue may become loose.

    With the second method I’m getting a clumpy bottom area where the leather meets and also the stitching is visable.

    Any help on doing this style gusset is very much appricated.

  • #2
    Have you attempted your second method combined with turning the gusset? Before turning you can trim your seam allowance, and post turning you can use a folder to better form your seam from the interior of the gusset. Suggesting the shape with a soft faced mallet works well, also.

    I’m sure I can find time to mock my idea up tomorrow if we aren’t on the same page already.