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Hermes Stitching Technique

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  • Hermes Stitching Technique

    Hello there,
    last week I noticed my aunt owns a Kelly bag so I instantly asked her if I could take a look at it more in detail. The main thing I was interested in was the stitching: we all have (when stitching) a front side (where stitches looks perfectly separated and super clean, the side we mark with the chisel/week) and a back side (looking good but not as much as the front side does). When I looked at the Hermes bag I noticed almost no difference between the front and the back stitch line. I was wondering if they used some particular technique to achieve such a stitching but don't think so: both the Kelly and the Birkin are supposed to be made using the saddle stitching technique (repairs done by Peter demonstrate it). Peter, hope you (or someone else here) can give me a proper answer to my question, I'd like to know how such a stitching is achieved.

    One thing I noticed tho is that the holes look more angled than the "standard" 45°, maybe.

    Many, many thanks in advance to everyone

  • #2
    Hi Isacco,

    Ok, first off, Hermes bags are not all saddle stitched. They have a majority of machine stitching with a special needle that makes the angled stitch. A Birkin for example is only saddle stitched where the handles attach to the bag, the main seam that attaches the flap and the ends of the straps that attach on the back of the bag. The rest is machine stitched.

    In saddle stitching in order to get it angled on the front and on the back you need to cast your thread over the needle on the underside when stitching. I hope that helps. If not you can alway buy my tutorial on my website where I go in-depth on all the techniques for saddle stitching.


    • #3
      Hi Peter

      It took me some minutes to figure out what you where saying in your response but than I got it and I must thank you a lot cause I can say I've now done it. Such a simple thing to change during the stitching brought to such a different result, it was kinda incredible to me.
      Now I'd like to know why you don't stitch everything "Hermes" way? I personally like the stitches to look as similar as possible front to back better. It was a bit slower process to me compared to "standard" saddle stitching, maybe that's the reason why you prefer the traditional way?

      About your tutorials: they're still expensive to me. I want to buy the base course but I decided the money I'm going to spend on that must have came from the leathergoods I'm (and I'll) make. No compromises on that.

      For now I want to get as much knowledge as possible from this forum and from your Instagram page, as soon as I'll have earned enough money for your tutorials you'll be the first one to know.
      HUGE thanks for this new platform and for the time and the energy you're putting on it.

      Sincerely Isacco


      • #4
        Hi Isacco,

        I normally stitch so it is angled on the front and back but there are some situations where you just make it angled on the front, like if the back side will not be seen after the lining is in or if your leather is very thin and when casting there sent room for the knot in the leather so the front side loses the angle. Its hard to explain...easier to see in the tutorial :-)